This Tuesday, in the heart of Kathmandu, a two-year-old girl was proclaimed Nepal's new living goddess , a revered figure known as the Kumari. The ceremony, which took place during the country's most important annual festival, marks the beginning of her life as an earthly deity, a centuries-old tradition that blends Hindu and Buddhist beliefs and continues to fascinate the world.
The Kumari, or Kumari Devi, is considered the human manifestation of the goddess Taleju Bhawani, a protective deity of the Kathmandu Valley. Her role is of utmost spiritual importance to Nepalis, who believe she has the power to bless the nation, protect the royal family (historically) and government leaders, and ensure prosperity. The tradition dates back at least to the 17th century, during the Malla dynasty, and has endured through the country's political and social changes.
The election of a new Kumari occurs when the titleholder reaches puberty, the moment at which the goddess is considered to leave her body. At this point, an exhaustive and meticulous search begins to find her successor among the girls of the Newar community, specifically the Shakya clan, to which Gautama Buddha also belonged.
The Rigorous Selection Process of the Kumari
The process for selecting the new living goddess is complex and steeped in ancient rituals. Not just any girl can aspire to the title; she must meet a series of very strict physical and spiritual requirements, known as the "battis lakshanas," or the 32 perfections. These criteria are evaluated by a committee of high-ranking priests and astrologers.
In addition to belonging to the Shakya caste, the candidate must have a horoscope considered favorable and compatible with that of the King of Nepal (a tradition that has been adapted since the abolition of the monarchy). Physically, the girl must be in excellent health, have no scars or birthmarks, and have never lost blood, even from a minor scratch. Her physical characteristics must be symbolic and perfect according to the sacred texts.
Some of the 32 required perfections include:
- A body shaped like a banyan tree.
- Eyelashes like a cow's.
- Thighs like a deer's.
- A chest like a lion's.
- A soft, clear voice like a duck's.
- Soft, flawless skin.
- Deep black hair and eyes.
Once several candidates who meet these attributes are shortlisted, they must undergo a final test of courage. During the Dashain festival, the girls are taken to a dark courtyard of the Taleju temple, where buffalo and goats have been sacrificed. They must spend the night alone in this room, surrounded by the heads of the sacrificed animals and masked men who dance to frighten them. The girl who remains serene and unafraid throughout the test demonstrates that she possesses the calmness and spirit of the goddess Taleju, thus confirming her selection as the new Kumari.
Divine Life in the Kumari Ghar
After her appointment, the girl's life changes radically. She leaves her family to live in Kumari Ghar, a palace-temple located in Kathmandu's Durbar Square. From that moment on, her feet cannot touch the ground outside the palace, so she is always carried in a golden palanquin, in the arms of her caretakers, or on special mats. Her family can visit her, but in a formal manner, as she is now a deity to whom they must show reverence.
The Kumari dresses exclusively in red, wears her hair in a high bun, and has the "agni chakshu" or "eye of fire" drawn on her forehead as a symbol of her special powers. Her daily routine is marked by rituals and the reception of devotees who come to seek her blessing. It is believed that her expressions can predict the future of those who visit her: crying or screaming portends serious illness, while collecting food offerings indicates financial trouble.
Although traditionally, Kumaris did not receive formal education, significant changes have taken place in recent decades. Now, private tutors come to the Kumari Ghar to teach them, ensuring they receive an education that will ease their transition to a normal life in the future.
The Return to Mortal Life
Kumari's reign as a living goddess abruptly ends with her first menstruation. The loss of blood is considered to make her impure, and the goddess Taleju leaves her body. At that moment, she ceases to be a deity and must return to her family to live as an ordinary citizen. The Nepalese government provides her with a lifetime pension in recognition of her service.
The transition from goddess to mortal is often a considerable challenge. After years of being worshipped and cared for, ex-kumaris must learn to perform everyday tasks such as walking down the street, going to school with other children, and socializing. There is a popular superstition that marrying an ex-kumari brings bad luck or premature death to the husband, a myth that has made it difficult for many of them to find a partner, although this belief is now losing ground.
A Tradition Between Devotion and Controversy
The Kumari tradition has not been without criticism, especially from child rights activists. They argue that the practice deprives girls of a normal childhood, their freedom, and their right to education and play. They argue that the isolation and pressure of being a deity can have long-term psychological consequences.
In response to these concerns, Nepal's Supreme Court issued a ruling in 2008 upholding the tradition as a cultural pillar but ordering the government to guarantee the Kumari's human rights, including her right to education, freedom of movement, and healthcare. Since then, measures have been implemented to improve her living conditions, such as formal education within the palace and greater access to technology, seeking a balance between preserving an ancient custom and protecting the girl's well-being.
